We took the ferry from Cairnryn, Scotland to Larne, Northern Ireland. Irish ferries are immaculate and spacious. I tried to find a way to the upper deck but every access was locked, blocked or roped. Phil explained to a Latvian crew member that we needed to get to the top to do some filming(kiting on top of a ferry) but that we had lost our paperwork. Would she go check with the captain for us? Of course, I'll be right back. And she did come right back and said no way jose. So we napped.
The northern coast was breath-taking; cliffs, oceans of blues and greens, stone fences, ruins, quaint sea-side towns. We stayed in Portrush with Phil's dad, who happened to be in Ireland for a golf tourney. Golf is huge here as one may imagine. One American that joined us for dinner told me that, "God is a genius, this land is made for golf." I left that one alone, it seemed pointless.
We left Portrush early the next morning and are now in Galway, a little over halfway down the west coast. It suprises me, but this is the most disappointing area of the whole trip.
The landscape is littered with new tract housing, straightened roads, tour buses, and blah scenery. The place has been Californicated.
We haven't given up yet. Today we are going to beeline to Dublin and make a southern loop. I know we will find good stuff on the ring of Kerry cuz I been there. But that is only one day's ride. Keep your fingers crossed.
Sidenote on the health of the Isles. We spoke with folks in England and Scotland about the changing waistlines in their country. They are quite concerned, but just on the cusp from what I saw. Maybe fifteen or so years behind us according to my untrained but fairly observant eyes. But Northern Ireland is a different story. Obesity has more than a foothold there.
Such a wonderful sort of haunting.
4 hours ago